Handyman Hugh's Washer Repair Video for GE Washer model whre5550kww, whre5550k0ww, whre5550k1ww, whre5550k2ww, whre5550k3ww part 1.wmv
Friday, December 30, 2011
Friday, December 9, 2011
Repair LCD Power Supply The Easy Way
Troubleshooting LCD monitor power supply pack is easier than the crt monitor power supply. It is small and compact and usually has only one output which is 12 volt and range from 2 ampere to over 4 ampere. Some designed have 18 and 24 volts also. Nowadays most LCD power supplies are build into the main board such as the Dell E151FP LCD Monitor while the older type were separated as power pack module.
The power pack module type is easy to diagnose because you can replace another working unit just to make sure is the power pack that giving problem. You may also use an external dc power supply to power up the LCD to confirm if the power pack is faulty. If you do not have the external dc power supply, you can always use this method to isolate the problem especially the symptoms are no power, low power and power blink. Using the rear light bulb (12 volt) from a car and connect it to the power pack output jack. If it light brightly then the power pack is okay. If it blink or dim the power pack have problem. Why have to use this method to test it? Because, if there are components shorted or leaky at the LCD main board, it will affect the power supply performance.
From experienced, most of the LCD power supply problems whether in the power pack or built into main board were due to the failure of electrolytic capacitors (most probably due to heat) in the primary and secondary section. Most of the capacitors have a high ESR which causes the power supply to produce low output, blink or no power at all. Typical value electrolytic capacitors in the primary side are 47 and 100 micro farad 50 Volt and the secondary sides are 1000 to 2200 micro farad 25 volt. Sometimes you can see the capacitor top casing became bulge and the sleeve that covered the capacitor casing turned into darker color like brownish.
The power section in some of the LCD screen are still using the UC3842 pulse width modulation (pwm) ic. This type of ic is quite easy to find in the market compare to some power ic which is very difficult to get. Samsung 153V LCD monitor is using the TOP247F power ic which is quite easy to troubleshoot if power fail in this model. Some power pack that came in only have minor burnt and after cleaning it and replaced the fuse, it will work as good as the new one.
Troubleshooting LCD power supply is not that difficult provided if you know how a power supply work. If you are unsure of how to troubleshoot power supply, I urge you to read all my power supply articles at the power supply page. I will continue to post more power supplies articles at that page and hope you could drop by more often to check out my website.
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Monday, November 28, 2011
House Session 2011-08-01 (17:06:34-18:07:16)
The House debated the rule on the compromise agreement to raise the debt ceiling and then moved to consideration of the bill itself. The measure was approved 269-161. Rep. Gabrielle Giffords (D-AZ) made her first appearance on the House floor to cast her first vote since she was injured in a shooting in January.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Electrical System for Bathroom
The service panel is the central distribution point for electricity after it enters the house. In new construction or in houses that have been built fairly recently, the service entrance will in all likelihood be a circuit-breaker-protected 150-amp to 200-amp 240-volt service. But older houses often still have fuse boxes with either round or cartridge-type fuses protecting the circuits. There are plenty of houses with 60-amp 120-volt services, knob and tube wiring, and only four 15-amp circuits. This type of system isn't inherently unsafe-in fact, fuses are more reliable than circuit breakers-but it is inadequate for most modern households and can mean that a bathroom upgrade will require that the electrical system be upgraded as well, a potentially costly and likely unanticipated add-on. A 100-amp 240-volt service will likely have little room for additional circuits, though piggyback breakers (two breakers that fit in a single slot) may provide the additional circuitry needed for a bathroom upgrade. Panels with 150 amps or 200 amps usually have enough room for additional breakers.
Branch circuits, protected by either circuit breakers or fuses, distribute electricity to different parts of the house. Circuits are sized according to the electrical demand of the particular branch. For example, a lighting and general purpose household circuit might have a 20-amp circuit breaker and be wired with #12 type NM (or Romex nonmetallic sheathed) cable. Individual appliances-a jetted tub, for example-usually require an individual circuit. Sizing circuit breakers and wiring is governed by local building codes, which in turn are based on the National Electric Code (NEC), published by the National Fire Protection Association. Local codes may also allow only certain types of wiring.
All fixtures and appliances that use electricity are rated for the amount of current they use. This figure is measured in amps (the rate of flow of electricity) and should be available with the appliance's technical literature, as well as right on the appliance itself. This information is essential for planning bathroom wiring because it determines how many circuits will be needed and their size. So it's important to know exactly what is going into the bathroom and to either have the fixture's technical literature or the fixture(s) itself in hand before planning the electrical layout. For example, there are a few low-flow toilets that require an electrical outlet, and any sauna, steam unit, or whirlpool tub is going to require additional electrical capacity and usually its own circuit.
Another code requirement is that light switches be no closer than 5 ft. from any type of tub or shower. This is to keep switches out of the reach of someone standing in a pool of water. Outlets of course also aren't allowed in tub or shower spaces (NEC 410-57), but bathrooms are required to have at least one GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter)-protected 20-amp wall receptacle outlet adjacent to each sink (NEC 210-8). A GFCI continually compares the flow of electricity through the hot and neutral sides of a circuit and will shut off almost instantly (in less than 5/iooo of a second) if the difference becomes greater than 5 milliamps. All bathroom outlets and jetted tubs need to be protected by GFCIs (NEC 680-70), which can be installed in the service panel as a GFCI circuit breaker or in the bathroom itself as a GFCI outlet. GFCI circuit breakers are typically more expensive and less convenient to reset than outlet GFCIs if they trip, but they are less affected by the sometimes excessive humidity in a bathroom, which can cause false tripping of the circuit.
The code also requires that appropriately rated fixtures be used in damp or wet parts of the bathroom. Most codes prohibit track lighting above a tub. And any cord-connected fixtures-this includes hanging fixtures or ceiling fans-should not be located either directly above a tub or 3 ft. horizontally or 8 ft. vertically above the rim of a tub (NEC-410-4).
Monday, November 14, 2011
How do I ameliorate my dishwasher pump?
Advice on how to unblock your dishwasher pump Our approved and tested Dishwasher Maintenance Powder (product code: 311313), Dishwasher Care liquid (product code: 311304) and Descaler (product code 311133) can be purchased from the Bosch eShop at: www.bosch-eshop.co.uk or by calling 0844 892 8979. If you require further product advice or would like to arrange a visit from a Bosch engineer, please visit www.bosch-home.co.uk or call 0844 892 8979.
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Monday, October 31, 2011
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